A few questions

[Greybags]

Here is Gavin's picture held so beautifully by such a soft looking delicate mitt

Evidently a household that uses Fairy Liquid, "For hands that do dishes can be soft as your face"




Grahame

[Finn]

Thanks again Gents.

I read the articles on MK2 heater upgrades and will probably do something similar - replacing the matrix with a modern one and fitting a blanking plate (for want of a better term) to push the air through the matrix.

A few more questions....

I can't find mention in the parts lists I have of the origin of the door locks? They look like MGB/C. Is this the case? I'd like to renew them as the drivers side is quite worn and will open with anything, even a key!

The boot lock is shared with a Triumph Herald? Are there any others?

Thanks again,

Finn.

[Gavin McArdle]

Graham I can assure you that my 'lilly white hands' are defiinitely a trick of light!

I have not had any dealings with the early type Gilbern door handles and locks so I checked my predesessors note and found---- MGB type?
So non the wiser.
Perhaps a phone call to Philip Ivimey might shed more light?
Gavin

[Finn]

I've progressed a little with the heater in so far as I've removed the old matrix and bought a new compact modern one with an additional axial fan. I'll be adding a water control valve and also an electric pump to the heater circuit. I'll post some pictures once I have it modified and fitted. I also need to find the coolant leak.

I fitted a new temp gauge, which still reads quite high (130 degrees) which is not right. I can't find any regulators for the instruments under the dash, so I think that is the next avenue to investigate. My research indicates the output from the regulator for the instruments should be 10 volts. It's probably closer to 14 volts so if I do the maths (130deg x (10v/14v)) = 93 deg, which assuming the maths is correct, is a OK temperature.

The tail lights and park have stopped working and the high beam only works if the RH indicator is on. I figure the high beam is related to the switch, so I'll look at that next unless anyone can suggest otherwise. I've had a good rummage about under the dash but all seems ok at the switch (The panel lights come on, so the switch is ok) Looking at the wiring diagrams it seems tail lights & side lights are all on the same circuit, so the fault is close to the switch before the circuit splits. It's most likely I have dislodged something in my under dash rummaging. There doesn't seem to be a fuse on this circuit either

I'd say about 20% of the wiring under the dash is redundant, being dead ends taped over or unconnected spade terminals. I think I will have to take the dashtop off and have a cull.

I've got some wiring diagrams from the CD, but wonder if there are any full wiring diagrams in existence.

[Admin]

It depends how long you were running but 93 deg still sounds high for the Essex V6. What temperature stat is fitted, Modern cars have stats of 95 and 98 but the V6 should be around the mid 70s. I am still running 64 (new old stock from a scrappy). Make up some long leads and suspend the send in a kettle. When the water boils the gauge read 100 QED

[Finn]

I have installed a 10v regulator of the Temp & fuel gauges. The temp is now reading around 85-88 deg after about 40 mins of town driving.. I've found a 74 deg thermostat and will order one shortly. The fuel gauge is still all over the place but reads 1/8 tank less. I think the inaccuracy (apparently it runs dry when reading about 1/3 of a tank) is perhaps due to the sender unit being mounted in the lower portion of the tank. Looking at a replacement sender it appears as though the float travel is equal either side of the mounting flange, therefore I figure the float sits on the bottom of the tanks before it runs out of travel. I'm guessing I could bend the wire arm up a little to compensate for the low flange mounting.

I've removed the dash top & am slowly culling the redundant wiring from under the dash and re-wiring bits & bobs and remedying the small faults.

I am now dealing with an intermittent complete electrical failure. Occasionally nothing works! As though the battery +ve terminal has been disconnected. 5 mins later and its back to normal! I started tracing the +ve and it runs to what looks like a solenoid (starter?) on the LH side in front of the radiator. 12v is present up until there, where I loose where the +ve wiring goes. Any thoughts on where to look? I might replace the HT leads from the battery to start with.

I'm making headway with the heater matrix and fan conversion, but noticed in last months Rarebit there was reference to a discussion on the 3ltr forum regarding heaters. How do I get access to this forum? When I click the link it tells me I don't have the required permissions.

Thanks again,
Finn.

[Finn]

I tracked the complete yet intermittent electrical failure down to a faulty dashboard ammeter. A new ammeter has fixed the problem.