Blue Invader

[Gavin McArdle]

Hi Steve(s), Millboard is the name that I was trying to remember, just flat ''cardboard'' that can be curved to fit the dash and can either be screwed or just rests on the chassis crossmember behind.
I managed to source what appears to be very thin fibreglass with a 'flock' surface on one side which again can be curved to fit the shape of the dash and is more rigid than Millboard. It can only be curved one way though, unless heat might make it more flexible but you don't really need multi curves.
Gavin

[spegru]

I am looking at two pictures, one mk2 and one mk3 (I think)
https://uploads.carandclassic.co.uk/upl ... 406378.jpg
https://uploads.carandclassic.co.uk/upl ... /56328.jpg
Both of these seem to have a moulding of some sort underneath the main dash. What is that in each case?

Either way, I am definitely interested, especially in that curvy dash top - even if it's only to take a mould from


Also, I am reassembling my front suspension. Unfortunately I had to cut through the bolts connecting the outer ends of the suspension arms to the swivel hub, in order to dismantle. I understand these are MGC items but cannot recognise the relevant part from the MGC diagrams that I have seen. Can someone point me in the direction of bolts and bushes for that please?

regards
Steve

[Gavin McArdle]

Hi Steve. BG may still have a stock of bolts and nuts if not Nameric are good suppliers.1/2''x3'' Top bolts & bushes should be the same as listed in Moss catalogue as MGC but may be a little long as the s/abs ends are thicker than Gilbern wishbones. Bottom bolts and bushes (again BG may have) are 5/8'' x 3''. again bushes are listed on Moss. Both sizes from memory!!!! Don't use Metric! Don't use rolled threaded bolts!
Bear in mind that no bolts are likely to be a straight swap with any MG stuff as only some of the parts are the same, some have been made by Gilberm. You need the shoulder of the bolt to reach the whole length of the bushed part. You may have to buy longer bolts and have more thread cut, note these are cut threads not rolled so the dia of the threads and shoulder should be the same. I found my top wishbones were bending into curves at the kingpin end so fitted 3/16'' square washers/spacers under the bolt head and nut to spread the load.
Top trunnion poly bushes and bottom trunnion poly bushes are as listed in Moss.
Top king pins and all the wishbone bushes are the same as MGC/B top trunnion, you will need (for the complete car) 10x inner tubes and 20x bushes. The bottom trunnion bushes are MGC = 2x tubes + 4x bushes + much grease and plenty of swearing! Again BG should have these.
As for the under dash---top pic is MK2, bottom MK3 = completely different!
Not sure what you mean, is it the ''eyebrow'' attached to the bottom of the dash or the bit underneath where the heater vent is visible?
If you mean the ''eyebrows'' then I think our used dash still has these attached. If you mean the bit where the heater vent is, then that is just Millboard cut and bent to shape.

[spegru]

Gavin, I guess it was mainly the Mk3 dash that I was admiring. My guess is that it will fit a Mk2, or can me made to fit quite easily when all I have is bulkhead to work from!
However the mk2 dash top looks the same in both types in any case. Yes I would like to buy or at least borrow it please.

Thanks for the info on bolts etc

Regards
Steve

[rocketman]

Hi Spegru, to stop my Ford 302 powered Mk3 I just managed to fit the servo and pedal box from a BMW M3, plenty on eBay at reasonable cost, the pedal unit incorporates the clutch M/cylinder. I had to weld up a new clutch pedal to get a correct fit, the original pedal made of plastic was to close to gearbox tunnel.
Good luck with the project!
Stuart.

[spegru]

Nice Rocketman. What size servo is that? I imagine the Mk3 might have more space up front?
S

[Gavin McArdle]

Spegru, I have collated some EPS info and will send to you plus 2 others near you if you would let me have your email address please.
Mine is in front cover of Rarebit.
Gavin

[spegru]

Thanks.

[spegru]

I have now fitted the entire Corsa column. I'm benefitting from the complete lack of dash/ vents/ wiring of course but it looks promising.
I now need to sort the Steering rack since the input shaft wanted to co though part of the (Jaguar) engine. I started by lopping off the input shaft but it's looking like I might be better off with a different rack and even without the input shaft the rack is quite bulky and I have noted that when rotating it around the mounting rail (fixed by only 2 end bolts so you can do that), it actually alters the height of the rack - which I anticipate will lead to bump steer.
So I am considering an Escort Mk2 item that I have lying around as it seems a very similar size between ball joints but it seems to have a slimmer input shaft arrangement, that is also further outboard.....

[spegru]

Still considering steering racks so i took a few meaurements

Original MGC/B: Total width: 1.1m. Space between inner swivels/joints: 24.5". Turns lock to lock: 2.9. Throw: 16.5cm
Ford Escort Mk2: Total width: 102.5cm Space between inner swivels/joints: 23.5". Turns lock to lock: 3.5, Throw: 13.5cm
The main reason for considering the escort item is because I have one and they are very available in different ratios - plus the input shaft appears to be about 2" further outboard. It is a bit too narrow but that should be easy to sort out. I also note that t he throw is less, which will make for a larger turning circle - not sure if that will be a problem.....

By the way I have a youtube channel that records my activity on this project - Spegru's Garage: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC3C55q ... oXg/videos

[Gavin McArdle]

Hi Steve, one thing to bear in mind,,,, the pivot for the track rods (under the convoluted boots) should be in line with the pivots for the inner suspension joints (which are angled, i.e. different top to bottom) or else you will get 'pull' (bump steer) as the suspension moves up and down. I have a GOC rack in my garage I will check the distance.
Gavin

[Gavin McArdle]

Hi Steve, agree the distance between the pivot points is 24.5''. Note that this on a Gilbern (not MK3) is an MGB rack with MGC track rods, to make it a bit wider, but then both the track rods and track rod ends have been shortened. If you use a different make e.g Ford you will almost certainly have to use Ford track rod ends, is the taper compatible with the Gilbern drag arms? (the arm attached to the kingpins)
Gavin

[spegru]

Thanks Gavin. I have noticed that the track rods seem to have been shortened with a hack saw! If I use the escort rack it seems I can get rod adaptors to fit the MG Rod ends made quite easily, by a guy on ebay https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181088569687?ul_noapp=true. He's already told me he can do one offs.
My main concerns are whether it might be easier to remove part of the Jaguar engine front cover, although I'm not sure if I need that part yet, and whether the reduced throw will make for poor manoeuvrability due to increased turning circle . Not sure yet....

[spegru]

Mark 2 Top Wishbone removal

This is just about the only part of the car that I have not yet stripped off. The reason being that it appears the rear mount for each side of the wishbone may have been welded on, after the wishbone was fitted, since there is no way to withdraw the bolt far enough before the head hits a main chassis member. The rear mount is a thin piece of steel whereas the front mount is an extremely substantial threaded block around an inch thick.
Am I correct or have I missed something? If I am correct is there some improved way to refit after replacement of bushes etc?
Thanks

steve

[Gavin McArdle]

Hi Steve, you are correct, that thin plate has been welded in place after the bolts have been tightened. The only way to remove the bolts is to saw off the plate, if done along the weld they can be used again. Or--- I have done a modification which allows easier workings, I will send you some pics. Whether this is a necessary mod is for discussion as the bushes wear very little so cutting off and re-welding every 10 or 20 years is not so onerous.
Gavin