Blue Invader

[Gavin McArdle]

Hi Steve, back axle should be MGC (if it has not been changed, actually most unlikely as it would need brackets and lugs modifying as well) Front nose (into the O/D ) can be from a certain Transit (can't remember the model off hand) I had my prop rebuilt and balanced by a firm in Bristol who gave me the details, I did an article in Rarebit at the time, about 4-5 years ago.
They stipulate a way of measuring the correct length so that the prop does not bottom out or even fall out during acceleration/braking.
Somewhere I have this info stored away but have not found it yet! I will continue searching and also try to remember the name of the company as it has changed from being originally Chards. Someone from Bristol area may know of them, at the time they were alongside Bristol Fruit Market?
We have bits of props in Used Spares but cannot remember if we have a complete one.
Gavin

[spegru]

Thanks Gavin. I dont think the axle has been changed but I was surprised to see that it doesnt match an MGB prop that I have. Of course no standard prop would suit me since I have a Mazda RX8 gearbox

The firm I have been in contact with (Kitspares) suggested the following "MGC flange is 87mm Dia. / 69.85mm PCD / 5/16” dia. bolt holes" - which seems wrong as my bolt holes seem to be 10mm
I've been searching MGC prop flange dimensions with no success so far.

[spegru]

I just took some micrometer measurements of my axle input flange.

With that caveat that hole centres are difficult to measure, I have the following

Outer flange diameter: 97mm
Diameter of inner recessed section: 60mm

Bolt hole diameter: 9.5mm, unthreaded
Bolt PCD: 79mm

Bolt holes are in a rectangle, not a square so
Long side: 61mm
Short side: 51mm
(which seems to agree with PCD to within 0.5mm using a bit of Pythagoras)

Does this sound standard MGC?

[Gavin McArdle]

Hi Steve, It's obviously a Gilbern!!!!.
A little bit more investigation needed perhaps? The MGC axle has a removable cover on the back, the MGB doesn't.
I am assuming that your car has standard Gilbern alloy wheels, or is yours one of the odd ones that have spoked wheels? If spoked, has it been converted back to a Healy axle?
I can measure one of our used flanges next time I visit our stores but that won't be for a week or so as I am suffering an absolutely stinking cold at the moment. (that's why I am in front of the computer, boredom!)
5/16'' bolts sounds about right, use correct bolts (ex MGC) as replacements as you need the shoulder to hold tight in the holes. These should fit from the axle side of the flange but many forget after replacing the seal and fit them back to front. It is difficult to get the bolts into the holes from the prop side as they foul the u/j lugs.
I have discovered the name of the company I used, they are still H.J. Chard Engineering, Albert Rd, Bristol tel 0117 9717341. They are prop specialists once you have identified the ends they will make one up for you.
Gavin

[spegru]

Gavin I believe there are two types og MGB axle - 'Banjo' and 'Tube'
The Tube type has the removable cover but the Banjo doesnt.
I am 90% certain that the Tube type is actually a Salisbury - and that that is what Invaders have.
If that's correct then it's possible that the input flange is the same as used by many other Salisbury applications including Landrover.
However alot of that is speculation that needs confirmation.....

[Gavin McArdle]

Hi Steve, but unless someone has changed it it won't be an MGB axle! It will be, if fitted with 5 stud hubs, an MGC axle. If it has wire wheels then it could be anything.
Gavin

[spegru]

I dont have wire wheels. I have original Gilbern 5 stud alloys
I think the only difference between the Tube axles on MGBs and MGCs is the 5 stud hubs.

[spegru]

I am making a bit of progress on this. It seems that that the Gilbern / MGC axle has the same drive flange as the factory MGB V8 - which is larger than the standard MGB. A nice guy at Moss measured an overdrive unit (apparently they are the same at both ends) and confirmed that the bolt holes are 3/8, which is 9.5mm - the same as my axle. So I dont think it's been modified after all. I just hope the prop shaft people can find a suitable flange.

In other developments I have fabbed up a replacement electric window motor arrangement to replace the old lucas windscreen wiper style motor that my car had, using rear window motors from a Discovery. Saves a whole Kg each side

[R_D_Olivaw]

In other developments I have fabbed up a replacement electric window motor arrangement to replace the old lucas windscreen wiper style motor that my car had, using rear window motors from a Discovery. Saves a whole Kg each side

That sounds like a good Rarebit article if ever I heard one.

[spegru]

Here's a fine detail question:
What is the thread size for the chromed rear end plate at the bottom of the door main window frame? Accessed from underneath.
It's a tiny tiddly countersunk thing which I measured the diameter of as 0.134" or 3.4mm and about 5mm long.
From that diameter, it *could* be #6-32 UNF (a size I've never heard of before)
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Unified_Thread_Standard

but I don't have enough thread to measure the pitch properly so pretty uncertain

[Gavin McArdle]

Hi Steve, not sure where you mean, is it for the plate that is attached halfway down the long part of the frame and hooks over the door flange?
Try BA most of the small fittings on Gilbern (in fact most cars of that age) are BA in this case probably 2BA.
Gavin

[spegru]

Here's another fine detail question - Rear bumper mountings:

Because the original mounts had rusted almost completely away I am uncertain how the mounts inside the boot/ underneath the floor are attached. What I saw from the remains appeared to be 2 outward facing studs (to which the bumper irons were fixed. The studs appear to be welded onto a plate that was itself fixed (somehow) to the triangulation piece in the back corners of the chassis. So that is what I have recreated. However I have little idea how that bracket was fixed to the chassis itself. Is it meant to be bolted through the floor? If so was that on slotted holes? Or was it riveted? through. Was the GRP applied over the top of all that?

Any info on this would be useful

regards
Spegru

[cminvader2]

Steve, I have attached a picture from my rebuild, hopefully it works. The bumper studs are welded to a bracket, which is in turn bolted to the triangular gusset plate which is part of the chassis. The whole lot is then glassed over. It doesn't need any adjustment as the holes on the bumper iron are over sized. The picture is looking down on the boot floor, drivers side. The "extra" bolt is a bonding point. Hopefully the picture works and with the above words it all makes some sense, but any more questions please ask.
Regards
Colin

[JayeM]

Hi Steve,
I've attached a link to pictures of how I did it on my MKIII in case they help.
I cut away sections of the boot floor to get to the attachment panels, then made ali covers over the holes, as if the bumper takes a knock the mounting bolt will probably shear, so I thought it would be easier to unscrew covers rather that grind back grp. If they don't make sense, just ask!

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/fq2osbxmzjti ... QYi1a?dl=0

cheers, John

[Gavin McArdle]

Hi Steve, we have a few (maybe 6) of the brackets in stock, new & unused. It is correct, they are under the fibreglass bolted to the angle web in the corner of the chassis.
Gavin