What did you do today?

[R_D_Olivaw]

Hi Gavin,

Thanks for the extra info, I will check it out when I am able to. Unfortunately I’m having some health issues which mean I’m a little unsteady on my feet, so with walking being a challenge I’d hate to think what would happen if I was also carrying a windscreen.

I’ve been trying to compile all the information that you, Brian, Tony and Keith M. have been sharing with me, and this is what I am thinking of doing.

1. With the old rubber still in place, cut away the part of the rubber that keeps the window from falling outwards.
2. Add plenty of lubricant to the rubber.
3. Sand off any rough edges from the glass to make it easier to move when in the rubber channel, though to start the channel will only have the backside and bottom.
4. Position the glass in the rubber to ensure it will actually fit.
5. Jack the roof up more if the glass won’t fit the aperture.
6. When all looks good, remove the glass; refit a new rubber; add lubricant and refit window.

I bought some suction cups to make it easier the move the glass and add pressure. The rubbers are all from the club, so fingers crossed.

[R_D_Olivaw]

Quick update.

1. Only one of my suction cups turned up, but it was still helpful.
2. Theory and practice are completely different.
3. My second try went a lot better than the first.
4. I haven't broken the rear window yet.
5. I'm going to have another go. I had to quit after the second try as I was feeling a little unsteady on my feet and didn't want to risk dropping the window.
6. I think I'm really close, but I've sent a begging e-mail to Brian Gent just in case he ventures my way before Christmas.

[Tony Hayward]

Morning Ian

Be careful with the suction devices-I bought two to test whether my new (old) screen would fit and assess the gap all round. Unfortunately because of slight curvature of the screen, the devices had difficulty holding the glass. I modified them by cutting in half and using a loose bolt to hold the ends together-this helped. After that I measured the gap all round to be sure that the new rubber would fit, also the new (old) screen.

Now waiting for new plug leads to cure a misfire-they are custom made by Magnecor to suit the triple coil pack and wasted spark ignition. Before you say it, I have replaced plugs, adjusted tappets and checked compressions-all sound; also measured resistance of plug leads-unfortunately all as expected. Hopefully one breaking down when hot.

Keep up the good work, when you are able (soon, I hope).

Regards

Tony

[R_D_Olivaw]

Hi Tony,

I'm not a very trusting person, so I'm only using the suction cups to move the screen around once it's been positioned in the aperture. I'm still holding it with my hands to marry it up.

I made a small change which helped and that was to cut the old rubber seal up into small pieces and place them at strategic points around the glass just to make sure the glass sat correctly and would fit. When I then fitted the new seal I new that in theory the glass would fit. I'll need to get someone to help me as my last two failures resulted in my pushing the glass through the hole.

[R_D_Olivaw]

Fingers crossed, but I think I have found a window guy that has agreed to put the windows in for me. Only downside is I have to wait two weeks for him to be available.

[R_D_Olivaw]

After a long wait the windows are now back in. The front window went in relatively easy but the rear was a battle and the chap looked like he'd had a workout down the gym by the time he'd finished.

This is the first step to getting the car water tight and out of my garage. Over the next few weeks I'll be working on the doors. I need to install all the paraphernalia that's around the top of the door where the window glass goes in. All the original strips had perished along with the upholstery on the door cap, so I have some fun and games ahead of me.

[R_D_Olivaw]

I decided it was time to face the music and work out how to re-assemble the door. The main bits should be relatively straightforward, but recreating the door caps and weather strips around the glass a bit more fiddly.

If you've ever wondered what's below the vinyl, the answer is wood and foam.

This is an image of my door so far

https://www.dropbox.com/s/iqzd9u0xkv92mn7/IMG_5979.JPG?dl=0

The wooden baton screws into the top of the door and is used to secure the vinyl plus the felt strip that should be flush with the glass once it is re-installed. The original felt strip look to have been stapled to the wood, something I have yet to do as I went with glue, but I may add some afterwards.

Before doing anything else I need to secure the outside chrome strip and secure the weather strip to that. I'm currently waiting for some very small screws to arrive before I can start.

[R_D_Olivaw]

The Christmas break has given me the opportunity to make some progress with the car, but the cold weather has meant I've only been able to get a couple of hours in most days.

I hadn't fully appreciated how fiddly it was going to be to put the door back on and initial attempts did not end in success as shown by this photo.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/va1hovygc8cngd5/IMG_6168.JPG?dl=0

The door is in the closed position and the door frame should be flush with the roof. After some fettling (I do a lot of that these days) I managed to get it into the right position, but the door needs to come off again in order to put a washer on the top bolt to get it lined up perfectly. I'll also have to do some fettling on the door sill as the door is fouling it. I repaired a hole in the fiberglass and obviously added too much fibreglass.

The reupholstering of the door cap appears to be processing nicely and I'll finish it once I'm happy with the door alignment.

It's definitely looking better with a door on (taken before I put the frame in).

https://www.dropbox.com/s/fpp9vhjdyawuvyj/IMG_6147.JPG?dl=0

The car is starting to get its face back thanks to the installation of the lights.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/44uzxjtx8kqnuey/IMG_6169.JPG?dl=0

I'm having a new grill made for the car as the one that it came with was non-original and falling apart. I'll paint it black and add the dragon.

My next job is to sand the paint at the front of the car with 2500 w/d and take the polisher over it before installing the front bumper, assuming I decide to put them back on as it looks quite good without them. I'll then re-focus my attention of the door, get it all sorted then swap the car around so I can work on the other side and the rear.

[Gavin McArdle]

Hi Ian, I am unable to open any of your pics so not sure how far along you are,,,, but one tip, instead of removing the doors to fit extra or remove present washers/spacers, try cutting some slots in the washers to make them Horseshoe shape. Then you can easily add or remove the spacers with out having to actually remove the door. If desired after setting the door you can then lift off and replace the correct number of washers with round instead of Horseshoe but it should not be necessary.
Gavin

[R_D_Olivaw]

Hi Gavin,

I have to remove the doors to install the new plates that cover the hole where the bolts that support the door come out of the A-post, but it do like your idea. My main problem was with the frame that didn’t sit how I needed it to.

To view the images you need to right mouse click on the link and open in a new tab/window.

[spegru]

Ian that looks lovely

[Gavin McArdle]

Hi Ian, I can open your pics today, I think my PC was having another off day yesterday! Regarding the door frame not fitting how you would like it.....this may actually be a MK3 problem! I have seen quite a few MK3's that the door frames do not fit all well on. FYI Gilberns changed body moulds part way through production. Phil Ivimey has produced some articles showing the mods needed to improve the situation on his car, probably a bit late in your case, but it may be worth finding the articles or contacting PI to get some ideas?
Gavin

[Blackpool Plastic]

Hi Ian

Like Gavin I could never open your photos. I have an Apple iMac and the mouse does not have a right click facility. So, being only semi computer literate, I searched online for the Apple equivalent of your right mouse click.

So for those with Apple computers .....

Hold down the ctrl key and mouse click on your Dropbox photo link. Then press " open in a new window " and your photo comes up. Hope this helps those Apple users amongst us.

PS : your car is looking great. Love the colour and the white roundel on the doors. My Mark 2 is bright red and also has one too.

Regards

Mike

[Tony Hayward]

Ian

Fitting (adjusting) the doors: always a pain in the a***. If you left the window frames off, the doors will fit perfectly! (Perhaps start a new trend).
I have spent many, many happy (!) hours trying to get a good fit-almost impossible. You can achieve a reasonable fit-I did. As Gavin says, if you look at Phil's article, it is a bit drastic but probably works-entails cutting the roof etc.

I even had the steel reinforcing plates ground as wedges, so see if the helped, unfotunately not much.

The main problem you have probably found, is that the door shell can fit perfectly, but then the window frame is a long way from the door aperture. Unfortunately I couldn't find a way of moving the window frame much if at all, so had to settle for a reasonably good fit, as opposed to perfect.
Sorry can't offer anything better!

Otherwise keep up the good work.

Regards
Tony

[Blackpool Plastic]

Photo of the rear of my Invader with the rear bumper reinstated after fitting new retaining brackets in the boot.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/AXoYAGdRV2dhC5B2A