You could try this from another forum. But be aware that if it doesn't work you will be driving along in gear and the only way back is to put it in neutral to come to a stop and start in gear to travel back! So pick an empty / quiet street.
Stuck Clutch .... big problem ..... first make SURE the release bearing is throwing the clutch plate back when you press the clutch pedal down. The clutch MUST feel normal or there's no point in going any further. Next get the engine running in neutral till it is warmed up to full running temperature.
You can leave it running as long as you like - the heat will get through to the flywheel, which is good.
Do this next bit where there is plenty of space, and it helps if it is a bit lumpy and bumpy too. Put the handbrake OFF . Engage first gear, and while it is IN GEAR, engine HOT, clutch pedal DOWN, operate the starter. The engine will fire up, and this alone may free the clutch off. If it doesn't, the car will drive off. Now holding the clutch pedal down, drive around between DRIVING (throttle ON) and not driving (throttle OFF) without banging the transmission too much, and sooner or later the clutch should free off. Warmth will come through and that helps. As soon as it frees off, do a bit of clutch slipping ... a few starts and stops in 3rd or 4th gears to polish the plates a bit.
A more practical way is to wedge the clutch pedal down, get under the car with a powerful torch, an LED small one to get into small spaces is good, and look in through the slot in the bell housing where the clutch arm goes and look for the gap in the pressure plate alongside where it bolts to the faceplate you should see the double layer of the friction plate. You made need someone to turn the engine over by hand to align with the gap you're looking through. With something like a wood chisel that's wedged at the tip, place between the friction plate and the face plate and tap with a mallet. Don't go mad or you will damage it, although if it doesn't free off, then it's gearbox and engine out to sort it anyway. And if you're going that far you'll be advised to fit a new clutch. £85 from Roger Spares.
Good Luck
gearbox removal
Moderator: Gavin McArdle
- Waylison
- Posts: 422
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- Location: Sutterton, Lincolnshire, UK
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Re: gearbox removal
Wayne
MkII AWF 24K
TVR Chimaera 400
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0QlKWwkzYNs
http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee39/waylison/
MkII AWF 24K
TVR Chimaera 400
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0QlKWwkzYNs
http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee39/waylison/
- Waylison
- Posts: 422
- Joined: Mon Sep 03, 2007 6:22 pm
- Mem No.: 2339
- Location: Sutterton, Lincolnshire, UK
- Contact:
Re: gearbox removal
Ok.
I remove mine complete with gearbox from the top.
I'm told it's possible to drop it out the bottom, but means removing the steering rack.
I drop off exhausts. Take off gearlever. Undo propshaft at diff and slide out, remembering to catch the oil that will come out of rear of tail housing. undo all electrics and tie back as neccessary. etc. then use lifting strap around rear two exhausts, the balance will be right to tilt as it comes out.
Need any more info just shout
I remove mine complete with gearbox from the top.
I'm told it's possible to drop it out the bottom, but means removing the steering rack.
I drop off exhausts. Take off gearlever. Undo propshaft at diff and slide out, remembering to catch the oil that will come out of rear of tail housing. undo all electrics and tie back as neccessary. etc. then use lifting strap around rear two exhausts, the balance will be right to tilt as it comes out.
Need any more info just shout
Wayne
MkII AWF 24K
TVR Chimaera 400
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0QlKWwkzYNs
http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee39/waylison/
MkII AWF 24K
TVR Chimaera 400
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0QlKWwkzYNs
http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee39/waylison/
- Waylison
- Posts: 422
- Joined: Mon Sep 03, 2007 6:22 pm
- Mem No.: 2339
- Location: Sutterton, Lincolnshire, UK
- Contact:
Re: gearbox removal
Hi Again,
Just remembered.....as you lift the engine out, you will need to take off the drivers side engine mount to let the whole lot past the steering column shaft . I'm sure you would have noticed it when the front of the car started to lift off the ground
Just remembered.....as you lift the engine out, you will need to take off the drivers side engine mount to let the whole lot past the steering column shaft . I'm sure you would have noticed it when the front of the car started to lift off the ground
Wayne
MkII AWF 24K
TVR Chimaera 400
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0QlKWwkzYNs
http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee39/waylison/
MkII AWF 24K
TVR Chimaera 400
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0QlKWwkzYNs
http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee39/waylison/
- Waylison
- Posts: 422
- Joined: Mon Sep 03, 2007 6:22 pm
- Mem No.: 2339
- Location: Sutterton, Lincolnshire, UK
- Contact:
Re: gearbox removal
My rad is already a modified much larger one, so maybe someone else can comment about yours.
Wayne
MkII AWF 24K
TVR Chimaera 400
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0QlKWwkzYNs
http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee39/waylison/
MkII AWF 24K
TVR Chimaera 400
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0QlKWwkzYNs
http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee39/waylison/
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