Rebuild

[Mixel Del Max]

My Mk 2 has been sitting (dismantled) in my garage for over 20 years now, and I am considering to start rebuilding it
I think I still have all the parts, but before I start this gigantic task, I would like to get some advice on do's and don'ts.
Does anybody know if there is a list of guidelines for this task ?
Are there advisable mods to be made now that everyting is in bits ?
I did purchase a brand new chassis (20 years ago )
Suggestions welcomed (through this forum or by e-mail on michel@demalsche.com)
Below is a picture of my beastie just after I dismantled it.

Oh.. one more thing.... I'm living in Belgium, which makes it just that little more difficult to hop over for a quick chat

[Gavin McArdle]

Hi Michel
Are you sure that your car has matured enough? 20 years ageing is not long,mine has been maturing for 30 years.
I cannot think of any thing that you need to change but there are many things that you can change.
I am sure that you will be getting plenty of suggestions and advice.
Meanwhile I can supply you with any bushes, rad hoses brake hoses and reconditioned electrical parts that you might need.
Good Luck
Gavin Spares

[alain]

Hi Michel,

I think you will have a lot of fun with the dragon !
Just move your marcos into the garden and start with it .
You can always take a peek at mine 30 mins from your place .I will keep the resin warm...
Cheers, Alain ( the other belgian).

[Camo]

There's a theme with these Gilberns being off the road for long periods... mine was 27 years before I got hold of it, I wish you luck with the rebuild.
Mine is only part way through but roadworthy at least !

Stu

[Greybags]

Hi and I wish you the best of luck with it ..

My estate had spent at least 21 years undercover before I got hold of it 3 years ago, and hopefully a few more months and it will be back on the road ..

There seem to be 2 ways of restoring a Gilbern, doing it quickly, or doing it slowly Personally I took the slow route

Just refurbishing or replacing everything as you go is one way, and I have found it's best to do one particular area, then do something different,.. For example rebuild the nearside front suspension, then clean and polish the dashboard gauges, before doing the offside front suspension .. This stops any one particular thing becoming a chore, and slowing work down... In my case stripping the 8 or 10 coats of old red paint off, really pi**ed me off...

Whichever way you do it, please keep us upto date with lots of pictures on here or on something like Flikr http://www.flickr.com/photos/grahamej

Best of luck and there is nearly always someone around to help with any questions...

Grahame

[GGenie69]

G'day Michel and welcome to the forum,

Do's and dont's for your rebuild.....

Do start it ...Don't get disheartened.

Guidelines....

Draw up a list of things you have to do chassis, running gear, brakes etc and put them in the order they have to be done i.e there is no point fitting all the brake lines if you haven't got the running gear on etc etc.

As you work through your list you'll be able to see what's coming next and take a break from that task.

Here's my list (also shows domestic things to do ) on the shed door. Mine starts at brakes because I've already done the chassis and running gear in no particular order

Front



Back



Since I've started doing things this way my rebuild has been forging ahead and I can see light at the end of the tunnel

Advice....

Before you do something your not sure of ask on here and pick the answer you like best

Good luck and get on with it.......

Richard

[Mixel Del Max]

What a nice surprise to see that I'm not the only one who hesitated a while to start the rebuild

First question:
After I dismantled my car, I decided to buy a brandnew chassis, welded on the original jigs.
It has one coat of primer on it but before I start the re-build, I want to give it some better rust protection.
I've considered hot dip galvanization but the guys from the shop tell me the chassis might warp.
Next option was to have it metallized with a plasma torch. Has anybody had this done ?
Or am I just overdoing things and should I just use the old Rutex or Dinitrol (bitumen type) coating ?

Comments welcomed !

[Mixel Del Max]

Hi Michel,

I think you will have a lot of fun with the dragon !
Just move your marcos into the garden and start with it .
You can always take a peek at mine 30 mins from your place .I will keep the resin warm...
Cheers, Alain ( the other belgian).

Well, I guess it's only a matter of time before the Marcos has the same chassis problems as the Gilbern had....
I will definitely come over to look at your progress....
PS: I prefer the beer to be cold, rather than the resin to be warm

[Mixel Del Max]

Hi Richard !
I like the idea of a list....
Can anybody provide me with a 3 meter long piece of paper ?

[GGenie69]

What a nice surprise to see that I'm not the only one who hesitated a while to start the rebuild

First question:
After I dismantled my car, I decided to buy a brandnew chassis, welded on the original jigs.
It has one coat of primer on it but before I start the re-build, I want to give it some better rust protection.
I've considered hot dip galvanization but the guys from the shop tell me the chassis might warp.
Next option was to have it metallized with a plasma torch. Has anybody had this done ?
Or am I just overdoing things and should I just use the old Rutex or Dinitrol (bitumen type) coating ?

Comments welcomed !

Personally I'd just paint it with "chassis black" a tough hardwearing but flexable acrylic paint. Nothing fancy. I had my chassis sand blasted before I sprayed it with an undercoat and then the "chassis black". I know it will be easy to touch up if required and I think the chassis will out last me

Richard

[Greybags]

A good coat of chassis paint, possibly something like POR 15 for instance.



But I would also drill every section and fill it with Waxoyl or equivilent and then plug the holes with the proper bungs. And even with a coating of chassis paint, it would still get a good external coating of Waxoyl or Dinitrol as well..

Done so much welding on old cars in the past, I do everything I can to mine to try to prevent the return of the dreaded tin worm as possible.

Grahame

[GGenie69]

Ah yes, I forgot you live in the world of salted roads

I used clear POR 15 on my boat trailer and then found out that no other paint will stick to it Had to paint over it with the POR 15 etch primer before the top coat, all turned out pretty expensive in the end

Still it never rusted, right up to the day it was stolen

Richard

[Fareham GT]

Our Mr. Slope is quite correct, lots of plugs and plenty of wax oil, the proof in the pudding is that the chassis of Genie No.17, which was a Motor Show car and was built during the early part of 1967, the factory did just that and the chassis is basically 90% rust free, the ony corrosion being under the battery tray.

Get squirting!

Brian