Inavder Mk3

[MrRoJangles]

Hello Everyone,

I have now decided to keep my Invader MK3 (was looking to sell back in 2010) and have started to get it mechanically fit before spending any money on cosmetics. Three issues I have encountered:

1 rear brake springs broken (already emailed Brian)
2 overheating
3 intermittent starting problems

On the overheating: I have checked that the coolant flows freely (flushed and refilled), electric fan cuts in, changed thermostat (82 deg)

On starting: starts and runs for a good 30-40 mins then refuses to start. Fuel tanks emptied/drained and filled with fresh fuel (unleaded), new plugs, leads, cap, rotor arm, coil, points and fuel filter (I have a new Weber carb waiting to fit this)

All help and suggestions are very much appreciated

Thank you

Rohan (MrRoJangles)

[Admin]

On the overheating: I have checked that the coolant flows freely (flushed and refilled), electric fan cuts in, changed thermostat (82 deg)

Does flushed mean chemically flushed?
An 82 deg stat is upper limit specified, I run a 64 deg Acquired as new old stock.
NB Without a history it worth first checking that indicated temp is true. Remove temp sender, make up some long leads and suspend the sender in a kettle. Water boils at 100 deg, does the gauge read true?
The correct sender matches the gauge, it is NOT Ford.

Surprisingly the heater matrix can have a significant effect on the cooling system (it is free-flow and several percent of the coolant) and while my dash was out for reveneering, I had a new larger core fitted to the heater. Temp does creep up if in traffic (at height of summer!) but open running is around 70 deg.

On starting: starts and runs for a good 30-40 mins then refuses to start. Fuel tanks emptied/drained and filled with fresh fuel (unleaded), new plugs, leads, cap, rotor arm, coil, points and fuel filter (I have a new Weber carb waiting to fit this)

Might be worth checking the ballast resister (normally provides 12volt at start and 9 volts running). Read more at http://www.burtonpower.com/tuning-guide ... stems.html
The Bosche ballasted coil comes with a new (generic) resister, while the original is Ford Transit, these are nolonger available but look alikes were available from spares. Try wiring it out and see if it cures the cutting out.

[MrRoJangles]

Thank you Admin,

Not sure what you mean by chemically flushed, I have used STP Radiator cleaner, then clean water before filling up with coolant.

Also not too sure if I have ballast resistor, will check when I get to my friends place (where we are trying to get the Gilbern running), when I get there I will also check the temp gauge and will consider changing the heater matrix.

[heathrowexpress]

Spot on from admin, When i bought my mk3 many years ago i put up with intermitant breaking down for the best part of 18 months. AA,Rac and many of my trained motor mechanic friends could not cure it.Starting spot on would run perfectly for 10mins to an hour then cut out, leave for 15mins and would start again. Changed everything including fuel pump turned out to be the ballast resistor changed on no problem since. The resistor is fitted close to the coil on the nearside chassis rail an is a small cermatic block with very fine wires wrapped around it. When replacing a coil a ballast resistor coil must be specified.
Hope this helps.

[MrRoJangles]

Thank you to Admin and Heathrowexpress,
I will speak to Brian and get these ordered. I will update the forum on my return from holiday.

[heathrowexpress]

Regarding carpet set for Mk3 i will try classiccarcarpets as mentioned by simon, I have not contacted them yet but they look good.Headlinings as well.
Best Regards,
Bry.

[Admin]

Had a look back into my records and the correct temperature send that I have fitted is stamped 17E3 & 4077 as recommended to me by a Scimitar specilist.