Blue Invader

[spegru]

Hello again. Ive now almost completely dismantled the window frame on the drivers door. I'll be needing all the rubber bits possibly also including the window sliding felt channel. Thus there will be bottom edge opening window seal, whatever was meant to be at the bottom edge of the non opening quarterlight and the felty bit on the inside of the opening window.
Unless there are well known suppliers of these parts then I'll likely start with Woolies https://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/
For the very thin rubber sections into the metal frames I wonder if these were ever really anything but putty so silicone might be the way forward

The outer edge of the window frame has/had a thin flange but I am surprised to hear that it might have been added as it all seems the same age and the chromed part of the channel seems to be set up to receive just such a strip (looks like a tadpole in cross section). Similar to wing piping but quiet a bit smaller. Although Woolies have rubber extrusions https://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/category ... -extrusion they don't seem to have this particular one as those one are all too big.
However I see there are companies out there who make such stuff, including https://www.par-group.co.uk/site-conten ... ctions.pdf so I shall investigate.....
Failing that perhaps a self adhesive strip might suffice

[spegru]

Regarding opening rear windows, it should be really easy since the window frame is hinged at the front anyway.
I now have some BMW coupe electrical openers and having searched ebay simply for 'rear window catch' have just ordered a pair of Suzuki Alto items that look very similar to the Classic Mini type but are alot cheaper. I got both items because ther is no catch per se with the electric bits and hey they were pretty cheap. I'm actually hoping to be able to combine them together
Although many such cars use window glass with a hole I anticipate a glued on plate with central bolt instead.

[ARAF]

Hello to you,
For all rubber extrusions that the club can't provide I have used COH Baines rubber extrusions 'just Google'.
I needed some specialised rubber window rubbers for a 1964 Land Rover Lomas Ambulance that I once owned and also the sealing rubber for a caravan locker surround 'Triumph Spitfire' that my brother had.
Hope this is of use to you and anyone else.
All the best Kevin.

[R_D_Olivaw]

Hi Kevin/Araf/Slow,

Thanks for the tip about COH Baines. These are the little nuggets that make everyone's lives easier. I've used these two websites in the past at someone else's recommendation.

https://www.vintagecarparts.co.uk/
http://www.automobiletrim.com/weatherstripping.html

I'm hoping your site will give me the edge trim I need to put around the spotlight apertures. I've seen it done on a few Gilbern Mk3s and it's a nice addition, but I've yet to workout where it was bought.

This is what I mean.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/nb6zxvbjz3lo6pt/IMG_3247.jpg?dl=0

[spegru]

Hi again Ian. Is your car not a mk3 then? If so are you planning to alter the front valence to suit?
That edge trim looks pretty basic stuff and surely must be available from lots of places.

From my side I am focused on the lack of door window edge flange trim and the nearest I have found is this place
https://www.vikingextrusions.co.uk/prod ... es-section - item 5589
I'm hoping Stoneleigh Kit Car show goes ahead TBC Aug Bank Hol weekend at which there will likely be loads of suppliers.
(Unfort I cannot make the Gilbern club days as I have a [UK!] holiday booked)

[R_D_Olivaw]

Hi Spregu,

I wasn't planning on changing the valance, but I did want to add the edging strip around the spot lights, which up until now I hadn't been able to source (probably looking in the wrong place). Unfortunately I didn't think to take a picture of the car registration when I took the photo, so I don't know whose car had it.

The rubber extrusion you referenced, is that to go into the channel around the window frame and sit between the window frame and the door surround? If yes I'd be interested to know how you get on. When I bought my car it came with a rubber strip, but it had seen better days. It did however fit extremely well, and I still have it around somewhere and can share the measurements. I just had a quick look in the garage, but finding anything at the moment is a nightmare, so I'll look at the weekend when I can remove the car more easily.

[spegru]

That Trim strip should be readily available

FYI Stoneleigh Kit Show has just been confirmed 29/29 August. I know a kit show might not necessarily suit everyone here but I believe quite a few Gilberns were sold that way and it should be a great day out with plenty of suppliers

[Gavin McArdle]

Hi, Once again Brian should be able to supply the spotlight edging, unless it is no longer manufactured.

Technically only 1 or 2 of the first GT's may have been supplied as kit cars. The definition of a kit car is a vehicle which only parts are supplied by the manufacturer, the builder has to source remaining parts from another vehicle, usually a worn out or MOT failure. So although some parts maybe new, some are most certainly not!
All other Gilberns were either Component cars or factory finished cars, the difference between Kit and Component is the with Component all parts were new and supplied by the factory, no sourcing required.
For those that were not around at the time this precedes VAT, instead we had Purchase Tax which could be reduced by a large amount if the purchaser did some of the assembly of the vehicle.

[spegru]

I've been away form the forum for a while but I have not slowed down on the project.
It's all going back together now but one thing Ive noticed is that the front of the bodywork is a bit floppy.
I notice that the inside of the front wings has a double layer of fibregless so presumably this was also noticed by the factory. My inner wings are only 75% done and the bulkhead only 50%, but nevertheless I wonder whether the nose could be further stiffened.
I am wondering about some kind of steel frame fixed to the radiator frame that connects to the nose behind the headlights, rather like a pair of glasses.

Does anyone else have solutions, or is it not a problem in practice?

[Gavin McArdle]

Hi Steve, the front of the bodywork is stiffened by bolting the horizontal panel in front of the front wheel arch to the triangular brackets that hold the bumper. It is most likely that these panels have been cut off as they get in the way. These panels stiffen the front considerably. If you make some other sort of attachment you may find that flexing causes cracks.
Note that there is a very small gap between the top of the bonnet hinge mounting and the underneath of the front top panel. Should you be in the position to find a 'delectable dollybird' (do they still exist in woke Britain?) draped across your bonnet she will almost certainly have damaged the fibreglass. I ground down the top of the brackets to give more clearance in the hope....... Still hoping!
Gavin

[spegru]

Thanks Gavin. It sounds like I have something missing.
By horizontal panel, do you mean the flat fibreglass section underneath the bumper mountings? what remains seems a bit weak. I wonder if I can improvise - I can imagine something attached to the vertical section behind the headlamps might also work.
Yes the panel directly above the bonnet hinge is damaged. No idea whether a Dolly Bird was involved...probably happened years ago when such things were still allowed! It's on the list of about 10 specific pieces of damage.. (slowly reducing) aside from the need for a general repaint. Actually I do seem to notice that that front section is rather flexible and could do with a bit of its own support.

Incidentally I need to get a prop shaft but I'm unsure whether MGB style is the same and/or whether my axle flange has been altered as it is drilled 10mm and has no threads at all. Is there anything special I should be aware of?

[cminvader2]

Steve,
Further to Gavin's reply, on my car there is also a small bracket between the middle of the top chassis tube (the one for the bonnet hinges) and the front panel (the one with the badge and "star" cracks on). If yours is missing you may see the attachment hole in the forward part of the bonnet "u" channel.
My car also had the star cracks from the bonnet hinges, but I have lowered the whole top cross beam by taking a section out of the vertical rails, and re-welding them.
Regards
Colin

[spegru]

I remembered that I actually have an MGB prop shaft to compare my diff input flange with. It's nowhere near similar so now I am in a quandry. Is there more than one type of MGB prop? Is the MGC one different? Has my axle been altered? Any pointers on Diff flanges greatfully received

Colin what a great idea to lower the cross beam! I would not have thought of that. I suppose you needed to remake the bonnet hinges to suit?
If I do that I can also make/ fit fibreglass rib strengtheners to the underside of the nose and replace the actual cross beam with new, to get around those nasty unsleeved holes. Yes my car had an original bracket there but I cut it off to make life easier when removing the body. I replaced with a new setup with four mountings to the nose panel at the edge of the bonnet recess, but it's still too flexible because it seems to twist

[Gavin McArdle]

Hi Steve, there should be a robust sheet of fibreglass that is a continuation but at 90 degrees from the panel that is the front of the wheel arch. It is attached to the inner wing behind the sidelights it reaches but is not attached to the front valence. It fits under the bumper brackets and there should be a lug on the brackets to bolt it to.
Yes there should also be a bracket from the top of the front chassis crossmember to the lip around the bonnet opening.
Gavin

[spegru]

Thanks Gavin. It has sometimes been difficult to remember what was there and was damaged by me during body removal and what was never there in the first place. So that horizontal sheet never reached the valence.... Hmm well it does now! The lug you mentioned definitely isnt/wasnt there so l'll have to recreate that.
I'll also adopt Colin's suggestion of modifying the bonnet hinge rail and while I am at it, reinforce the underside of the nose.

BTW I am still in need of prop shaft info: What exactly is the back axle and what flange is required?

Thanks

steve